Meet the Locals | Manly | Surfer Dad
One of the greatest things about Manly would have to be the diversity of families, friends and local legends - who call Manly home. It’s that sort of place where you come to visit for a week, and end up staying for a lifetime. The characters and stories that make this place so unique and exciting are all so different, yet they all share something quite special in common - their love for Mother Nature. The salty sea air, the sticky summer afternoons, the pregnant bellies in bikinis - it’s the beauty of nature that draws us to this place, and captivates us with every full moon, and king tide.
To really understand what it means to live in this magical world of surf, sand, bushland, and zinc-faced babies, you really need to hear it from someone who’s living it... and lov’n it! Which is where my good friend, and local dad and surfer James comes in. James and I did a shoot earlier this year, and the energy and charisma he brought to the camera was unforgettable. So I thought I’d ask him to share a few of his fun thoughts and secret passions about what it’s really all about, and why he chose to call Manly home for his young family.
How long have you been surfing for?
A long time, although most of that time I lived in London so I couldn't surf much which explains why I'm still so keen despite being in my 40s.
I first started surfing when I came on holiday to Sydney from the UK. My Dad emigrated from Sydney to London in the 1970s but we were lucky enough to be able to visit every few years. When I was 13 we took a day trip to Dee Why beach. I hired a board and wetsuit. I absolutely loved it and was immediately hooked. So much so, I begged my Dad to buy the hire board and suit and I brought them back to London despite living 8 hours from the nearest surfing beach.
Where is your favourite surf spot?
Locally, it has to be the Bower. There is something magical about paddling out from Shelley beach, over the reef and being so close to so much ocean life. I'm looking forward to paddling out there with my kids for a session soon.
What do you hope your children get out of surfing?
In the first instance its purely about fun. When you get a good wave, it literally feels like you've just won something. The feeling of elation is unbeatable and very addictive. But I also love that it is getting them to appreciate the natural environment.
Who is your surfing idol?
Thats a tough one. There are a lot of amazing surfers out there. For me its more the surfers that are not only magical on the board but also have a deeper connection to the ocean. Gerry Lopez, Dave Rastaovich and Tom Curren. These guys are surfers that have pioneered different ways of riding waves but also integrated other interests like yoga, music and ocean conservation into their lifestyles. Its also no co-incidence that those 3 are perhaps the most stylish surfers of all time!
What do you love about surfing?
The sense of feeling utterly in the moment. As you enter the ocean and paddle away from the beach there is a focus that is required and means all the other distractions and noise in your brain is quietened. When you are on the wave there is a feeling of exhilaration and freedom... and that feeling grows deeper as your surfing improves. Thats the other thing I love... its a constant journey of progress. Every wave is a little different and every session I'm building on the last in terms of skills and capabilities.
How do you stay healthy?
Go surfing! I don't really do much other exercise other than chase after the kids and ride a bike around town. Surfing is how I stay healthy.
What do you love about raising a family in Manly?
I can't imagine a better place for small children to grow up. The access to the outdoors, the wonderful climate and the easy going nature of the community means the children have an enviable start to life.
Interview Lauren Weatherall
Little Manly Photography